Words: Natalie Courtois
When one thinks of Mourning dress, vibrant colour and slashes that reveal slith limbs are not the immediate vision which spring to mind.
Yet for SS17 this is exactly what Marta Jakubowski presents to us. Taking a personaly reflective mood following the passing of her mother and the way in which she gave celebration to her life, inspired from a trip to India, where she became particularly drawn to the way in which death is celebrated within this culture, seen as a celebration of life rather then approached with morbid sadness.
What emerges therefore, is a wonderful and appropriate celebration of colour for the summer season as Shocking Pink, vibrant Orange, Red, Black and crisp white all come together to form the colour palette, while intricate and, at times, severe cut away and slashing detail revel perfectly toned backs, stomachs and legs (for these slashes can be worn only by the Uber athletic)
Jakubowski’s use of fabrics is equally exciting, mixing deep comforting velvet’s with silk and light to heavy crepes. Her use of Veils reference loss, as well as the emotional cover women must bear in this world.
The collection itself was shown in Presentation form. Models displayed the collection on a moving, pink fabric covered carousel, representing the cycle of life and childhood, designed by set designer Gary Card, and the German Lullaby, Lalelu.
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